We surf in the corner of the bay. The waves hitting a rocky point and curling around, small but clean. I'm constantly paddling against the current, onto waves, back and out. Everything's moving super fast bar the logo on the centre of my board. My arms burn with eh muscle strain of paddling but every rise of a wave I see I have to take it anyway. I can taste, smell the salt as it enters and leaves my sinuses in gushes. It'll pour out unexpectedly for the next 24 hours. As I get more tired my hands slap the water with each stroke and as my board passes over the choppy water it makes an echo like slap like waves against a boat.
