Down wooden stairs in the bright but cool sunlight, the thin strip of sand (soon to be even smaller by the rising tide) is clear and unmarked. We eat lunch, sausages, hot and spicy in bread and ketchup. The oil, spitting and sizzling angrily in the pan splashes my chest and tickles and stings like the sand fleas around my feet. I swim in the sea naked, freezing cold, I'm shivering and purple as I run out, flicking sand up the back of my legs. My t-shirt and jeans never felt so warm.