Sunday, May 4, 2008

Day 36, Torquay Surf Beach

Surfing Again!!

This time I surf alone, the small surf occasional where I am. Fifty feet to each side groups struggle with the tiny, slow waves. I paddle hard for some, missing them by strokes, my arms, shoulders and neck burning with my blushing frustration with myself. I'm biting my lip with effort, releasing it to gulps of fishy air when I eventually get a wave. I'm getting cold, the winds sharp and my hair wet. The children learning to surf nearby scream and giggle as they pick up the white water. My own breathing's heavy and fast, filling my head as I paddle away and out.