I'm waiting, sat on the rear roo bars of the van, staring at my feet and the concrete below them.I feel flat today, flatter than the blown out non-existent surf across the road. It's getting cold, i need a wetsuit but can't find one to fit. I drink some cool milk from the carton, it lines my mouth and my breath. The wind cools my back through my t-shirt, I can hear it blowing through the dunes and out across the bay.
